Willy Chavarria Resurrects Cholo Culture Through Sartorial Elegance

Willy Chavarria is redefining the global perception of Cholo culture through his designs, blending West Coast streetwear influences with high-fashion tailoring. At the A/W ‘25 collection, for his first go-round for Paris Fashion Week, Chavarria's collection breathes new life into silhouettes with deep roots in Chicano heritage. Balancing street authenticity with a refined edge, from relaxed Chino cuts to meticulously tailored opera coats, Willy Chavarria creates a dialogue between cultural homage and contemporary elegance.

Exaggerated shoulders made room for a new physique in silhouette on the runway as Chavarria’s sartorial language inseparably ties to his Mexican-American heritage and the West Coast communities he calls home. "I am from the San Joaquin Valley, Fresno, LA area—my roots are there," he says. Drawing inspiration from his upbringing, he incorporates staple Chicano pieces, such as oversized Chinos, flannels, and suits into his collections.

“Cholo culture started in the ’40s with the Pachucos and evolved into what we now see in hip-hop and skate culture,” he explains. By embracing these origins, Chavarria’s designs preserve the essence of the Chicano aesthetic and its linear subcultures to hip-hop displayed in the recent Adidas collaboration, while expanding its influence into new realms.

Chavarria explains, “We’re paying homage to classic styles by elevating them to their most premium form. There’s a lot of influence from that era, paired with fine tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and meticulous pattern development with my design team. Every detail is considered, from the curve of the sleeve, to how the fabric interacts with light.”

He continues, “For instance, this fabric changes depending on how it’s cut—one direction gives it a darker tone, while another makes it brighter. Even these subtle fabric details affect how the pieces are sewn and ultimately presented.”

Chavarria’s collections are both an ode to humble beginnings and a showcase of premium craftsmanship seen in cropped hoodies, oversized denim, and bomber jackets that cater to streetwear-luxe aficionados. “The styles born of lower-income demographics create amazing fashion,” the passionate designer reflects.

His approach honors these origins by elevating everyday streetwear staples with luxurious materials like crushed velvet, washed silk, SUPIMA Cotton, 100% fully recycled fishnet fiber by RECYCTEX, as well as Italian wool. "Taking those styles and making them in Italy with Italian fabrics is my way of paying homage," he adds.

This juxtaposition of casual and couture is evident in every detail. From the precise curvature of a sleeve to the choice of fabric grain, Chavarria’s work embodies meticulous artistry. Emphasizing the different eras of Chicano influence, he details, “I also love that ’80s style with cinched waists and broad shoulders.”

“I draw inspiration from older Giorgio Armani and designers like Claude Montana. Those strong silhouettes were incredibly influential, and we haven’t seen them embraced in a long time. That ’70s take on the ’40s aesthetic, which carried into the ’80s, is something I’d love to revisit and reinterpret.”

One of Chavarria's signatures is his reinterpretation of masculine silhouettes. His designs often play with the balance between voluminous tops and cinched waists, evoking an ’80s aesthetic rooted in ’40s inspiration. “It’s about enhancing the male form—broad shoulders, tight waists. It’s hyper-masculine and bold,” he says.

Drawing comparisons to designers like Claude Montana and Giorgio Armani, Chavarria brings back strong, structured forms that were once staples of fashion but had faded from modern menswear. “Nobody’s doing that now,” he observes, “so it feels super modern to bring it into today.”

While Chavarria’s designs often cater to high-fashion clientele, he ensures his work remains accessible. “From a business perspective, it’s important to have fashion people can relate to,” he explains. His collections are carefully curated to include avant-garde pieces for boutiques like Dover Street Market and more democratic options for broader audiences.

This strategy allows Chavarria to maintain his brand’s cultural authenticity while making it approachable. “Fashion has to be wearable and relatable, even if it challenges silhouettes,” he says. His suiting, for example, merges athletic and formal elements, offering a style that is both bold and adaptable.

Beyond the clothes, Chavarria’s work serves as a cultural bridge, connecting his Chicano heritage with audiences worldwide. Whether it’s a cropped jacket inspired by hot-rod culture or a reinterpretation of the classic coach jacket, his designs resonate with authenticity. “Lowrider culture, biker culture, it’s all part of who I am,” he shares.

In his latest collection, Chavarria continues to push boundaries, transforming the Cholo aesthetic into a global statement. “It’s about taking what’s been overlooked or misunderstood and showing its beauty,” he says. And in doing so, he ensures the legacy of Cholo culture thrives, in the streets, on runways and beyond.

Willy Chavarria has a remarkable ability to bring the essence of Cholo culture to life through fashion. His designs are a language of identity, heritage, and rebellion. At the core of his work is a celebration of a style that carries cultural significance seen in his latest casting of the A/W ‘25 runway show, making it resonate with diverse audiences while staying authentically rooted.

“I like to dress people of color. I like to dress queer people,” Chavarria says in a tangent. His designs transcend the traditional and are crafted for those whose philosophies align with his. Whether it's Billie Eilish, Kendrick Lamar, YG, or Colman Domingo, Chavarria’s approach is deeply personal, ensuring that every piece worn is an extension of the wearer’s values and his own.

Chavarria’s reinterpretation of classic Cholo silhouettes—oversized trousers, structured jackets, and cropped tops—carries the cultural pride and rebellious energy of the original style. “That trouser is so sick,” he shared, pointing to a signature look on the rack of his latest lookbook shoot. “It’s that silhouette we were talking about - jacket [with] big ol’ baggy pants.” The structured elements he incorporates refine what might be considered casual into something couture.

Even his flannels tell a story. “It’s those quilted flannel shirts you buy at Walmart,” he said before adding “but this one is super tailored. Super structured.” The juxtaposition of raw cultural inspiration with high-end craftsmanship is part of Chavarria’s acclaimed genius.

Chavarria’s deliberate choices go beyond aesthetics. His designs amplify representation, celebrating the stories and communities often overlooked in fashion. He envisions a world where diversity isn’t a trend but a permanent fixture.

Blending elements of Cholo culture with the sophistication of dandyism, Chavarria has positioned his brand as a beacon of innovation. “This is very ‘40s, like the Dandy era,” he said, highlighting how his collection bridges eras and aesthetics. It’s this versatility that makes his work suitable for anything from streetwear to red carpet-looks.

As Chavarria continues to push the boundaries of fashion, his commitment to authenticity and inclusivity ensures that every design is a piece of culture. Through his work, Cholo culture finds a new home on the global stage, celebrated with the reverence it deserves.

Willy Chavarria is collaborating with influential organizations such as the ACLU, the United Farm Workers Union, and the Human Rights Campaign (HRC) to bring a "pro-love campaign" to Paris. Highlighting their partnerships, Chavarria shared that they are a "Big supporter of the ACLU, the United Farm Workers Union - working closely with the Human Rights Campaign (HRC)." The initiative, supported by Tinder and includes a photography exhibition.